Patek Philippe serves salmon
Are you a hardcore Patek Philippe collector suffering from nautilus fatigue? Then buy the new Perpetual Calendar 5320 and Chronograph 5172.
Oh! Hi! After a frantic sprint this morning to write up the new-look Calatravas (check her e and here), I've come back and noticed two great new salmon dial color variants for Patek Philippe's most popular And collectors' two savvy models, the perpetual calendar 5320 and the chronograph 5172. Now, of course, it's just a dial tone change, but I still think it's news. Patek Philippe's two most collectible salmon sweet watches? Sign me up.
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5320 was launched in 2017. Ben wrote the introductory article for this model, and I recommend you go back and read his article to understand the 5320's innate appeal to serious lovers of vintage Patek Philippe watches. We've got double-column sun and moon apertures above the center of the dial, luminous syringe hands - not the first time we've seen them today - and a lovely moon phase display with the date at six o'clock. Oh yes, there's also a real 40mm x 11.13mm monobloc white gold case with the absolute coolest lug design produced by a major watch brand today (don't @me - the triple faceted design is legit) . Patek Philippe confirmed the list price at $94,624, or about 23 pieces per ear.
The white gold Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172 was recently launched. Cara put together a lovely introductory article when she released the first reference example at Baselworld (RIP) 2019. Of course, if you follow the recent Patek Philippe family history, you will remember that the 5172 replaced the 5170; both references retain the same hand-wound movement, the CH 29-535 PS, a fact that continues in today’s 5172 update.
Manual-winding chronographs are avid aficionados, and the new 5172G, with its salmon-coloured dial, is extra snappy. Plus, today's update retains all the attributes that were critically acclaimed when it was released in 2019 - no date window, pump pusher, twin sub-dial, syringe hands, and a cute tachymeter scale, adding a sporty touch to an otherwise classic classy design .
I'm sure salmon can do nothing wrong. The fish is delicious. Colors are endless. When applied to a watch dial, it exudes a wonderful luminous aesthetic that never gets old or tired. Patek Philippe’s text artisans wouldn’t describe the dials of the new 5172 and 5320 as “salmon dials”; they preferred the term “rose opal.” A rose can be a rose by any other name. For the rest of us, these are salmon dials, throughout.
Collectors always have a passion for Patek Philippe. That's what it takes to be a BBOC (big brand on campus) with Rolex. If you don't believe me, check out the hundreds of comments on our coverage of the Tiffany-Blue Nautilus 5711 late last year; the opinions are crazy. What I love about that launch is that less than a week later, Patek Philippe silenced the haters with the minute repeater, a highly engaging and technically fascinating advanced research project.
This week in December proved once again that Patek Philippe joined Mount Rushmore watchmaking for a reason – the brand can play on both ends of the spectrum, sliding from fringe streetwear to truly inventive horological design. The launch of the new 5172 and 5320 should remind anyone who has been forgotten: Patek Philippe still delivers serious, retro-inspired complicated watchmaking better than almost anyone on the planet.
Base Brand: Patek Philippe Reference numbers: 5172G; 5320G
Diameter: 41mm; 40mm Thickness: 11.45mm; 11.13mm Case material: white gold Dial Color: Salmon, duh (aka rose opal). Index: Apply Arabic numerals Luminous: yes Water resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Chocolate brown alligator leather strap with white gold folding clasp
sports Caliber: CH 29-535 PS; 324 SQ Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph; hours, minutes, seconds, date, day of the week, month, leap year indication, moon phase, day/night display Diameter: 32mm; 28mm Power reserve: 65 hours; 45 hours Winding: Manual; Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph / 4 Hz Jewelry: 33;29 Observatory Certification: Patek Philippe Seal